Pattern and Structure: The "Skeleton" of a Jacket

A high-end custom jacket's fit is not simply a matter of "S/M/L". It needs to balance static aesthetics with dynamic comfort.

1. Shoulder design

• Raglan sleeves: The sleeves extend diagonally from the neckline to the armpits, offering a high degree of freedom of movement and are suitable for athletic jackets (such as baseball jackets). The challenge lies in the three-dimensional tailoring of the shoulder curve to avoid wrinkles and bunching.
• Set-in Sleeve: The sleeve is sewn separately at the shoulder joint, with clean lines, suitable for formal wear or slim-fit jackets. The sleeve cap should have a "gain" – that is, the armhole curve is slightly longer than the armhole by 1-2cm, forming a full shoulder through gathering. This is the key to demonstrating the level of craftsmanship.
• Kimono sleeve: The front and back panels are integrated with the sleeve, without shoulder seams. It is commonly seen in Japanese-style jackets or Zen-inspired designs. It requires extremely high fabric width and cutting precision.

2. Garment structure

• Chest darts: These darts, either vertical or horizontal, sculpt the chest muscles, preventing a hollow or tight appearance. Custom-made darts will be tailored to the client's chest shape, adjusting the dart position and depth accordingly.
• Waist adjustment: Jackets typically have adjustable loops or built-in elastic at the waist. When customizing, the waist circumference can be precisely measured to create an "inverted trapezoidal" visual effect.
• Ribbed hem: A classic element of the bomber jacket. The width, elasticity, and color of the ribs must coordinate with the main fabric, and there should be no wavy twisting after sewing.

3. Collar type and placket

• Notch Lapel: Similar to a suit lapel, suitable for more formal jackets. The width and angle of the lapel need to be adjusted according to face shape and shoulder width.
• Stand Collar: A classic design like the Baracuta G9 jacket, where the collar height should fit snugly around the neck and not feel restrictive when buttoned up.
• Cuban Collar: V-shaped opening, suitable for Hawaiian shirt jackets, the angle of the collar points needs to be precise.
• Zipper placket: The zipper length, zipper pull shape, and zipper fabric color should all be carefully matched. High-end zippers such as YKK Excella or Riri are standard.